In January 2024 the World Food Programme described families near Ukraine’s front line getting through the winter, some of them without electricity for days at a time. One woman, in the mornings, “bakes traditional pancakes, known as mlyntsi using WFP-supplied flour” (WFP). It is a small detail, and it is the whole idea of this site: a ration turned back into a dish someone grew up with. More in cooking through war.
Mlyntsi are thin, like crêpes, and eaten sweet or savoury. This follows the proportions of the Ukrainian chef Yevhen Klopotenko’s recipe, made with UHT milk and without the eggs.
- Mix the flour, sugar and salt in a bowl. Pour in about a third of the milk and beat to a thick, smooth paste; this is how you avoid lumps.
- Beat in the rest of the milk a little at a time, then 2 tablespoons of the oil. The batter should be thin, like single cream. Leave it 10 minutes.
- Heat a frying pan, about 20 cm, over a medium flame and wipe it with oil.
- Pour in a small ladleful, about 60 ml, and tilt the pan straight away so the batter runs into a thin, even round.
- Leave it alone until the edges look dry and start to lift, about a minute and a half. Without eggs, turning too early is how they tear. Turn it and give it 30 seconds to a minute.
- Stack them on a plate as you go, and oil the pan lightly between each.
Serve them rolled or folded round jam. Condensed milk, honey or tinned fruit work just as well. For a savoury version, leave out the sugar and fill them with something from a tin.
Makes about 8, serving 2.